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Zaph's kart track tool build thread

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  • Zaph's kart track tool build thread

    Well, picked up a little something to ride around town and the kart track. Kawasaki Z125 Pro.




    Bike is stock for now, but some parts are rolling in. Started my own thread so I don't pollute Ryan's.

    For starters, my doc has cleared me for riding minis at the kart track, but the big high speed tracks are still a no-no with my heart surgery. So I gotta stay retired from that but can at least get some track action at a smaller scale. I've crashed at USAIR 3 times and the worst I ever got was a slightly sprained thumb.

    I picked the Z125 over the Grom for a couple primary reasons - way better suspension from the factory, more lean angle with the pegs 2" hiigher, and it looks better. Picked it up for $2626 at Southeast Sales during a sale they had. Good timing, the 2018's go up to $3200 or $3400 if you want the "special" paint job with the bold new graphics. (no thanks) Ok on to the mods:

    Dunlop TT93GP tires. Bought from Summit Racing for $153 with free shipping. Cheaper than anywhere else, and the tires are drop shipped from the Dunlop US warehouse so it's less likely that I will get old stock. There appear to be some decent race tire options like the Mitas (Savas) or the PMT slicks, but both are known to be so soft that they will only last a day or two.

    Motodynamic integrated tail light. Purchased directly from Motodynamic in case I need to exercise the warranty rights. The price was decent and I liked the look of it more than the TST or Mnnthbx options. As a bonus, it appears to have all the correct plugs, so no wire stripping is required. Has a load resistor too. I have it in hand, so this will get installed right away to rid the bike of that massive beaver tail. I have one or two license plate brackets laying around that I can use.

    Galfer stainless steel brake line - Front only, I'm not touching the rear brakes on this. I didn't buy the rotor or pads yet, more on this in a bit.

    Pro Taper SE Handlebar 7/8 Schoolboy Low - I nosed around bar dimensions for a long time. Definitely need something lower though it would benefit to have it further forward. Mnnthbx has a top triple clamp option that moves the bar mount forward 25mm, but it's too pricey for my tastes. So I'm just going to try these bars first. They are cheap and no big deal if I don't like them.

    Yoshimura RS-2 full exhaust and
    Bazzaz Z-Fi fuel controller - The Bazzaz was a much better value. I have some good options for dyno tuned maps to load up in the Bazzaz. There are lots of exhaust options for this bike so far, but the Yosh is one of the better horsepower options. The Comp Werkes system looks nice with the way it tucks under the bike, but I believe the exhaust is too short that midrange power work suffer. The Yosh curls around and makes a loop under the bike for a longer effective length. Ordered from Riders Discount - their price was WAY lower than anyone else.

    Also might get:
    Mnnthbx airbox replacement - Mtake. Not sure yet.

    What remains are the rotors and the pads. The options for this bike kind of suck right now, and my understanding is that it's because the rotor and caliper are new designs this year. There are NO good front pads and the only rotor option is the solid non-floating Galfer. EBC only has their horrible base HH pads, and they have not brought EP or GP models to market. There are a couple bargain level pads thaat I'm sure will fade immediately. There are no Vesrah RJL or other good pads typical for cheap calipers. The makers need time to come up with pads and we're stuck with garbage for now. I'm surprised the brake system is all-new because it's looks like it was stolen from a 90's scooter.

    I don't intend to do any suspension mods as that would blow the budget. So far, stock feels pretty good, which was surprising for a bike at this price point. Strong springs too. If I do anything, it might be to just add preload spacers on the fork and go with a bit thicker fork oil.

    John K - Appleton

  • #2
    Sweet! I'd like to try one of those out sometime on a kart track.
    You should see me in a headsock !

    Comment


    • #3
      I'd like to try one on a kart track too. Come on up and take a spin on it. I expect to have it ready for kart track duty in a few weeks.
      John K - Appleton

      Comment


      • #4
        Now I have to go and get those sumo wheels for Conner's Pitster Pro. It is also a 125 air cooled 4 speed. It does have Marzocchi suspension though.
        Like me on Facebook at Yellow Duck Racing
        LB Photography, Apex Custom Coating, Track Graphix, Spears Racing

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        • #5
          I actually had my eye on a Pitster for myself. I was just a little concerned that I might have difficulty getting it resprung for my weight. Was also considering a CRF150RB among other mini options.
          John K - Appleton

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          • #6
            I was watching that pitster up by you. That one was also 4k new. It was just a couple years newer than mine. It also had a 140 engine.

            You can easily get springs for the shocks and forks. Lots of aftermarket stuff for the Pitsters out there.

            Plus the bottom end is interchangable with CRF 50 and top end is klx/drz 110 stuff.
            Like me on Facebook at Yellow Duck Racing
            LB Photography, Apex Custom Coating, Track Graphix, Spears Racing

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            • #7
              Can't wait to see it zip past me at USAIR!
              Matt J., Appleton
              2015 Yamaha R3
              Instagram- @motomatt_r3

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Matt-J2 View Post
                Can't wait to see it zip past me at USAIR!
                Maybe in a corner but I don't think that's happening on a straight, hahah.

                Today I ordered a set of preload adjusters from japan.webike.net. My credit card required me to do an extra confirmation step to do an international order. Webike seems to be much more professional and trustworthy than Aliexpress for example, which is pretty much all Chinese junk.

                Speaking of Chinese junk, I picked up a set of cheap levers. I don't recommend anyone buy cheap Chinese levers (especially brake side) unless you are willing to take measurements and check tolerances. I've seen it too many times, the plunger pin area is a source of dangerous misalignment that can lead to drag and lockups.

                Got the tail light mounted. Holy crap, that fender extension has steel reinforcement and weighed about 4 pounds. Good riddance to that.

                Ordered 2 tires and only one arrived. Grrrrr, need to check into that now..
                John K - Appleton

                Comment


                • #9
                  looks like fun, Zaph! Glad you got the OK to play with the minis !!!
                  WELCOME TO WiR - Enjoy
                  Attention - Giveaway info

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                  • #10
                    Race tires mounted. Galfer front brake line mounted and bled. (thanks Matt-J for the RBF600) Picked up a Galfer rotor and mounted it. Yoshimura RS-2 mounted. Chimera intake mounted - But I don't really like it, or the MNNTHBX version for that matter. The OEM airbox is a structural support for the side fairings, and they seem loose with it gone. Looking into some other intake options, possibly 3D printed airbox cover with openings for a pod filter.

                    I started installing the Bazzaz tuner, but wasn't really impressed with the install. They have me tapping into some lines using these crappy posi-loc splicers. I expected better, and I'm doing my own soldered and sealed splices instead. Also they want the ignition switched power to tap in the rear taillight positive. Not good, since I wanted to disable the lights by pulling the light fuse. Still have to work out a better switched +12V location.

                    Also picked up swingarm spool mounts that go on the end of the swingarm. They seem to work well.

                    Got some fork preload end caps. Not very common for these bikes yet. Hardracing was out of stock with Takagowa units. Ordered from Webike in japan and arrived in 4 days if you can believe it.

                    Got some rearsets on the way. I'm past what I wanted to spend so I got some cheap ones. These will move the footpegs back 3" which helps big guys like me fit their legs in the gas tank sides.

                    It's all coming together. Though admittedly I'm getting tired of wrenching and just want to ride!
                    John K - Appleton

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The posiloc splicers worked well for my PC3 install, but if you have the time and energy to solder them, that's much better!

                      Edit: I confused Posi-loc with what I used, they look completely different from what I was thinking.

                      These are what I used:
                      https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Splice-.../dp/B003L9KWQ4
                      You should see me in a headsock !

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah, posi-locks are little round things like this.



                        Pretty much the weak sauce of the electrical connectors. I've got a bunch of power commander installs under my belt but never came across these.
                        John K - Appleton

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Zaph View Post
                          I started installing the Bazzaz tuner, but wasn't really impressed with the install. They have me tapping into some lines using these crappy posi-loc splicers. I expected better, and I'm doing my own soldered and sealed splices instead. Also they want the ignition switched power to tap in the rear taillight positive. Not good, since I wanted to disable the lights by pulling the light fuse. Still have to work out a better switched +12V location.
                          Let me know if you want a hand on the wiring... without looking at the harnessing, and assuming the bazzaz has a relatively low current draw, you could likely tie into the signal wire on the headlight relay. Even with the fuse removed, the signal wire will likely activate with the keyswitch, and I'm guessing has enough juice to run the bazzaz. Might want to throw a fuse in line just to make yourself feel better.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Actually, those Posi-lock connectors like you pictured are very good. I've used them for several things, and always carry a variety of them on trips in case of emergency. They are easy to use and have always held securely for my applications. Cutting/soldering is better, but only IF it's done right; i.e. no cold solder joints, you don't knick other wires, you shrink wrap or tape the new joint properly, etc.
                            Motovid CR
                            2006 Suzuki GSX-R750 (track warrior)
                            2004 Ducati ST4s (road warrior)
                            2009 Harley-Davidson Street Glide (Couch Potato-potato)

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                            • #15
                              Maybe those connectors are better than I think they are, but confidence sure isn't high.

                              Time for some pics. Custom designed 2 piece airbox cover, to be 3D printed. Pod filter connection right in the middle where it will clear the forks.



                              Protaper bars and preload adjustment caps from Japan


                              I have a nice set of 12" OEM Z125 tires if anyone has a need, free.
                              Last edited by Zaph; 08-14-2017, 02:29 PM.
                              John K - Appleton

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